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I have a cover band and we cover a lot of arena rock. Back in the 80’s you needed a pair of vice grips on your nuts to hit some of those octaves. Being 30+ years older isn’t easier to sing. I figured out a cheat on how to hit those notes by using LEAD MUTE and OCTAVE UP on the Voice Box. This issue is when you kit on the OCTAVE UP portion…the volume drops out about 15%. I use this effect to sing Motley Crue, Firehouse, Quiet Riot, Slaughter and other ball busting Octaves with ease. I sing an octave lower…and what comes out of the amp is blistering octave up vocals.
The issue with the current VOICE BOX is the reverb is very minimalistic, there is no DELAY effects, and the GENDER doesn’t have a lot of range. Again when I use the LEAD MUTE with the OCTAVE UP the volume drops out. Sure there is a mic boost switch but its too much and its not hands free when switching between bypass and the effect.
EUREKA…a new product is born. Hypothetically call it the ROCK VOX. Lets pretend you are singing the song by Steel Heart, “I’ll Never Let You go” .
You sing the lyrics in a normal voice however, when you get to the chorus of the song, you step on the LEAD MUTE/OCTAVE UP switch and you can still maintain your normal singing voice, while out of the speaker you hear blistering octave up vocals coming out with delay and reverb. Once the chorus is over, you step on the LEAD MUTE/OCTAVE up switch and you are back to normal voice. I use this trick all of the time and it blows the crowd away. However I found flaws with TC Helicon doing this as well as volume drop out issues with Electro-harmonix VOICE BOX. This could be built several ways.
1. Create a dry pedal that has Gender Bender and when you step on a switch, it automatically LEAD MUTES/OCATAVE up. Can add separate reverb and delay pedals to the chain.
2. Use existing pedals and combine in one platform. Put the HOLY GRAIL REVERB next to the PROPHET DELAY side by side built in the pedal design. Then add the LEAD MUTE/OCTAVE UP PEDAL integrated with those platforms. Make sure to put the OCTAVE UP/LEAD MUTE switch to the far Left of the pedal for easy access and activation to avoid accidentally stepping on the other switches. I drew out the design but I am unable to attach it. Kindly email me and I will email the design concept not to scale. A crude example of the layout below:
(KNOBS) GENDER BENDER REVERB TIME REPEATS MIX
spring 1/16
hall 1/8
flerb 3/8LARGE LED 0 0 0 0 (SMALL 0 ARE LED INDICATORS)
0 0 0 0 (SMALL 0 ARE THE METAL FOOT SWITCHES)
(FOOT SWITCHES) OCTAVE ON/OFF MIC BYPASS REVERB DELAY
LEAD MUTE ON/OFF ON/OFF***A large LED indicator is helpful becomes sometimes you forget to turn it off and when you speak the audience you sound like Mickey Mouse.
***The foot switch near the end makes it easier to turn off and on without having to look down while playing guitar.
*** Integrate the lead mute and the octave up together. Make sure there is no signal drop or boost when activated.Thanks for humoring me.
discokillers2018@gmail.comMany people would love to easily sing high range songs but just can do it (that includes me). With a similar set up I am knocking it out of the park. I believe this item would be a huge success.
Topic: Need Help about EH0400…
Hi 🙂
I need electronic help about my EH0400… i can solder and so on but i don’t understand what’s wrong with this Synth…
i need to repair it for a friend…
Can you please help me if i give you some picture ?
I hope so 🙂A wire is desolder and i don’t know where it should be connected and a capacitor is broken (12pF) but before that the synth didn’t want to work..
Thx
Tom
Also I have an Octave Multiplexer from the 1990s.
In the 1970s I decided to take 4 EHX pedals, the EM, OM, Bib Muff Pi V1, Small Stone Phase V1 and a breadboarded Guitar Sound Intensifier (fancy words for preamp/treble/bass boost/cut circuit) that was actually featured in an old Popular Mechanics magazine that I still have the article for. I decided to disassemble the individual boxes and get one bigger box and make it “The Squawking Owl” that incorporates all the effects with a power supply I made. Used it for many years. I decide I would like to sell the unit but when I went to test it I noticed the Flanger, when on, had a whole lot of white noise in the background with the flanging. I thought I would exlude the power supply and I disconnected the flanger from it and wired a separage AC adapter type PS to the board but I screwed up and reversed the polarity. That made something unhappy. After awhile I stopped getting sound entirely out of that effect. The rest were still working fine. But then I took the flanger out to troubleshoot it and wired around the footswitch for it and for some reason, now my Octavizer isn’t working in effect mode. Ugh. So frustrating. Everything on that effect seems to be wired correctly with power. So I no longer own my big old oscilloscope, I decided to buy a small portable OS and a small transistor/capacitor/diode tester.
I went ahead on the flanger and replaced all the chips but the one that’s hard to get, the Reticon SAD1024 (that used to be $7 at Radio Shack). I also replaced the two transistors with equivalent PNPs. I get sound out of the flanger in effect mode but no flanging (oscillation) but no white noise either. Hmmm.
So my problem is I can do a rudimentary troubleshooting with a signal generator and the oscilloscope and see that the wave is making it through the Op Amps and such, but it would help if I had a service guide that would tell me what I should see at the various points at the chips and such. So I can see where the flaw is. Same with the Octave effect. I haven’t changed any parts on that yet. But all the chips on it are available for not that expensive as it’s a newer effect.
If I can’t fix it I will probably have to start selling off parts as non working on Ebay.
Thanks for reading.
I want to play them like a hi hat and kick drum.
Topic: HOG 3
Trying to post this under a different account as the first disappeared. Here are my thoughts on a Hog 3 as well!
What do you think?