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  • EHX STAFF
    Keymaster

    Please contact the techs at:
    info@ehx.com

    M at Mie
    Participant

    I bought an intelligent harmony machine.

    It doesn’t power on when it is chilled.

    The specification of it says it can work in temperature between 5 to 35 ℃.

    But it doesn’t work under around 15 ℃.

    I made it chill to 8 ℃ in a refrigerator, it didn’t completely power on.

    And I made it warm with a hairdryer, it turned on.

    I reported this problem to music instruments store, and the store made the distributor in Japan to send me another new one.

    They said the new one was changed some parts and the problem was solved.

    But the new one doesn’t power on when it is chill again. The problem is same as before one.

    Does someone know how to solve this problem?

    Music instruments store and the distributor in Japan don’t know how to do.

    #209700
    EHX STAFF
    Keymaster

    Sorry to hear this.
    Please drop the techs a note. They can help you out with this.

    info@ehx.com

    If you dont hear back please check your spam folder as sometimes mail goes there.

    #209677
    Amberr_is_dumb
    Participant

    So I was changing out the battery in my muff for the first time and when I put my new battery in the battery connecter stopped working entirely. My 9v was a little big so I had to shove it in a little bit. I closed the back and plugged in and it didn’t work. I tried putting the original battery back in and it didn’t work either. The only way it gets power is through plugging in an adapter.

    Any help or advice would be hugely appreciated 🙂

    Valter Aguiar
    Participant

    Greetings, fellow nerds! I have a Silencer and I only use it to split the signal in my pedalboard.

    I know that The Silencer has a buffered bypass mode. What I wanted to understand is, as the title says, is both the ‘SEND’ and ‘OUTPUT’ sending a buffered signal or only the ‘SEND’ is buffered? The manual says:

    FOOTSWITCH and LED – The Footswitch selects whether The Silencer is
    engaged or in buffered bypass mode. When the gate is engaged, the LED is lit.
    The effects loop remains in your signal path while The Silencer is bypassed.
    ...
    OUTPUT Jack – The OUTPUT jack is The Silencer’s main audio output. The
    gated signal exits through the OUTPUT jack. The output impedance is 300.
    SEND Jack – Connect the SEND jack to the beginning of your effects loop. The
    output impedance is 300. The SEND jack outputs a buffered version of the
    signal present at the INPUT jack at all times. If you do not need to use the
    Silencer’s effects loop, the SEND jack could also be used to split the input signal.

    This is so that I know where to put my fuzz pedal, to avoid it being messed up by a buffer before it.

    Cheers!

    Silver.Surfer
    Participant

    Hello,

    Does anyone have a Stereo Poly Chorus they can take the back off of and snap a picture of for me? I did this thing a few years ago: started to install a different type of switch, to add a status LED so that I can tell when it’s on, but then I got this true-bypass PCB with it, and thankfully didn’t get that all the way installed… but never mind that! I didn’t get everything put together, and I’m wanting to get things back together so that I can use this pedal again.

    I did take a picture of it before desoldering that switch. And I wish it was a better picture…

    Any help is very appreciated…

    – Justin –

    Gastrounit
    Participant

    So… how do I tell if my Attack Decay pedal (modern, not vintage) has been damaged by a boost pedal?
    Is that even possible?
    It doesn’t seem to sound right anymore, I get a saturation/distortion kind of noise now on the input when sound is loud (hitting chords hard), but its fine when signal isn’t as loud.
    For a little while, I tried placing my wampler wong compressor/boost in front of the AD pedal, because I wanted to break off the unaffected signal off for direct recording, but then go through the AD and other pedals to my amp. The compressor has an extra DI output for that.
    But is there any reason the AD shouldn’t be able to handle that? Seems odd.
    Only had the pedal about 15 months. I would think modern pedals would be ok with signal levels, not just raw guitar pickups.

    I’ve gone back to just guitar straight into the AD pedal, and it seems like it’s not normal anymore.
    Not sure where to go with debugging the situation…

    Gastrounit

    #209158
    telling
    Participant

    Hello

    I have an ENGL Fireball SE20, with an associated 2 * 12″ cabinet that can run in both mono and stereo. Then I have an EHX Howitzer amp. Now if I put the cabinet in stereo mode and connect each of my 2 amps to the cabinet, they work as intended, individually. But as soon as the two amps somehow connect via the shaft of the jack, the Howitzer emits a clicking sound at about 1hz. It doesn’t matter if my ENGL is on or not. I have contacted ENGL and their first suggestion was to turn the groundloop switch on my SE20 on/off. Unfortunately that has no effect. Both amps are connected to the same power supply which is connected to a ground. There are no other gear connected, just to amps to one cabinet in stereo. Does anyone here have a troubleshooting suggestion?

    Sincerely Michael

    #209154

    In reply to: Bass Preacher Hiss

    One quick test that is worth trying is going straight from your bass into the Bass Preacher into the M-Audio Air. Does the hiss noise level change when the tuner and Digitech pedals are removed?

    Also, where do you have the SUSTAIN knob set on the Bass Preacher?

    #209152
    pigatt
    Participant

    Hi all,

    Yesterday I recieved my Bass Preacher, and I recognized, when it is switched on the sound is much quiter than when it is switched off. I am using a Custom Stingray, with Nordstrand 2b-MM preamp with Nordstrand MM4.2 pickup.
    Then I adjusted the trimpot under the cover to get the same volume level in switched off state and switched on Volume pot at “12 o’clock”. But in that case when I would like to boost the volume I got hiss which is quiet annoying. What can I do?

    The chain looks like Custom Stingray -> BOSS BIC 5 cable -> Ibanez BigMini -> BOSS BIC-PC-3 -> DigiTech Drop -> BOSS BIC-PC-3 -> EHX Bass Preacher -> BOSS BIC 5 -> M-Audio Air 192|4

    Thanks in advance!

    #209123
    Samsikes
    Participant

    I tried a newer battery and it’s back to normal. Thanks!

    #209095
    Samsikes
    Participant

    I received a nano small stone a few days ago and it has been working fine, but today it stopped working. The LED still turns on and the pedal does something, but does not modulate. When I flip the color switch or plug it in again it works for a few seconds then goes back to not working. I’m using the battery that came with it. Anyone know what I could do? I’ve got the warranty but if it’s an easy fix I’ll just do it myself. Thanks

    #209094
    restlessman
    Participant

    Hi. This post is really old but I got the same problem with a couple of vintage units (v3 and v4). The ‘pop’ sound when activate the pedal was terrible, but the solution was very simple. First of all, I performed a cleanup of the units with contact cleaner and a brush but it didn’t help. Later I found out that not only the switch activation caused the sound but any strong touch or vibration on the units (like activation of a nearby pedal). I opened one of them and found out that the tip connection of the output jack was a bit loose, so I bent it towards the center to make the connection between the jack and the plug stronger. Voilá! The pop sound dissapeared! I hope this helps anyone. Let me know if does.
    Greetings from Chile!

    #209089
    Big Bad Pete
    Participant

    Hi there,

    I’m sure that the “creamy lead tone” demo for the Satisfaction Plus is inspired by a famous song.

    Satisfaction Plus demo

    But… I can’t remember it…

    Any ideas ?

    Cheers !
    BBP

    • This topic was modified 5 months, 2 weeks ago by Big Bad Pete.
    Ned Flanders
    Moderator

    You can mod it to sound exactly like the original version very very easily. Yes, the original 1980s versions used either chip depending on what they had.

    SAD1024 or MN3007 makes no difference and considering the Reticon BBDs are obsolete, over a hundred bucks a piece if you can find them, and break easily, it’s simply not worth doing.

    Also, considering that your asking about it I’ll assume you don’t have the technical knowledge to do it. (I don’t intend to be rude…just saying what is obvious)

    The original version sound isn’t from the chip, but from other parts.

    I made a PDF of how to do it….at your own risk. It’s a simple paint by numbers process.

    Check my thread here:
    https://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?t=31913

Viewing 15 results - 46 through 60 (of 20,277 total)