Home Forums Help/Technical Questions (Black) Russian Big Muff Issue

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  • #83810
    zac_crook
    Member

    Hello everyone. This is my first post here.
    I’ve got a 2008 Russian Big Muff that was modded for true-bypass before I bought it.
    It used to work wonderfully until I (not realizing back then the knobs had set-screws)
    accidentally destroyed the pot by attempting to pull the knob off. (Wow, they’re cheap…)
    Anyway, I’ve got it wired up just like this guy:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XeCLflUP2iw

    However, when disengaged I get a great guitar signal; when engaged, the LED doesn’t
    come on and I have absolutely no signal at all. Any thoughts on what might be wrong?
    When I put the positive end of an ohm meter on the pad where the hot of the 9v is
    connected, I only get a reading up until where the trace is cut before the output.
    Nowhere else.

    Thanks in advance!

    #120503
    zac_crook
    Member

    Update:
    I tested the switch and it’s A-OK. I’m stumped as Hell.

    #120507
    gemather
    Member

    I do not understand what the wiring of the switch
    had to do with the destroyed knob.
    Do you have photos?

    #120510
    zac_crook
    Member
    Quote:
    I do not understand what the wiring of the switch
    had to do with the destroyed knob.
    Do you have photos?

    I accidentally broke one of the pots and decided to upgrade all of them.
    When I wired everything up, it didn’t work, so I tried again.
    Now I only get a signal when the pedal is bypassed. When I engage it,
    the sound is cut and the LED doesn’t light.

    #120511
    gemather
    Member

    You can look at kitrae.net for the wiring diagram
    for the black russian versions.
    But only with no true bypass.
    V8_Wiring_Diagram.jpg

    #120513
    zac_crook
    Member
    Quote:
    You can look at kitrae.net for the wiring diagram
    for the black russian versions.
    But only with no true bypass.
    V8_Wiring_Diagram.jpg

    That’s my issue. I’ve got it running true-bypass with a 3PDT switch.

    #120517
    gemather
    Member

    CCCPBIGMUFFTBD.png

    #120516
    zac_crook
    Member

    The way I have it wired (which is how it originally was when it used to work) is how the guy has it in the link to the video I posted. I understand there are multiple ways to wire a 3PDT switch for true-bypass, right? Anyway, I’ll take some pictures tonight and post them. Maybe somebody can say, “No, dummy! THERE’S where you screwed up.”
    Thanks again for all the help, guys.

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