Home › Forums › Help/Technical Questions › True Bypass Russian Muff – Extra Wires Needed?
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June 27, 2010 at 6:50 pm #80418alex192Participant
Hi again!
Ok, I have a 3pdt switch and I am following these instructions: http://www.singlecoil.com/docs/russian_muff.pdf
I am modding a Russian Black Muff (’98-’00 larger six screw box, which I believe has more in common with Green Muff than newer black reissue).
I can follow the instructions OK, and know where to solder each wire. My problem is that on the existing switch, there are some wires which are soldered to it which aren’t used with the new switch. There is one wire coming from the central lug of the sustain pot, which wires into original switch. If I follow the instructions to wire the new switch, this wire would not be needed. Is this correct?
Also, where the ground wire from jack number 10 wires into the old switch, there is also another wire leading to the same lug on the switch, leading to the jack on the pcb that lies directly between jacks 9 and 10. In the new wiring on the new switch, the wire from jack 10 is used, but the one the other wire (from the jack in between 9 and 10) is not needed.
Can I just confirm that these wires will not be needed or connected to anything with the new mod?
Thanks a lot and well done if you followed my (attempts at) explanations!
June 27, 2010 at 7:05 pm #109846The EH ManModeratorQuote:There is one wire coming from the central lug of the sustain pot, which wires into original switch. If I follow the instructions to wire the new switch, this wire would not be needed. Is this correct?Correct. You can remove this wire.
Quote:Also, where the ground wire from jack number 10 wires into the old switch, there is also another wire leading to the same lug on the switch, leading to the jack on the pcb that lies directly between jacks 9 and 10. In the new wiring on the new switch, the wire from jack 10 is used, but the one the other wire (from the jack in between 9 and 10) is not needed.Same with this wire. It’s just an additional ground wire.
June 27, 2010 at 8:59 pm #109847alex192ParticipantThanks a lot for the reply. I’ll wire it all up and tell you how I got on.
June 28, 2010 at 1:34 am #109851Ned FlandersModeratorYou can also true bypass it and keep the original switch, just dont have an LED. I have instructions if needed.
June 28, 2010 at 11:27 am #109857alex192ParticipantThanks for the offer, but I’m modding it with a 3pdt switch to keep the LED. On a side note, I had just bought a dpdt switch to be used in a Vox V847, but didn’t realise that the Big Muff uses one. Either way, I’ll probably keep the switch for a future mod of some sort.
November 25, 2010 at 9:34 pm #112751Kekke466MemberI recently added a daisy chain socket to power my Russian big muff and it works great, I just have one problem.
When the pedal is powered by a battery (no AC/DC plug connected) the battery still drains…Every time I store it away the battery that is left inside is dead. I measured out the resistance between the + and – lugs of the socket and it’s 75k, even when it’s off.
I believe this is because of the disconnected sockets from the input and output…that the mod describes.
I believe the original input socket worked as some sort of switch for disabling battery drainage.
So basically the effect is on ALL the time with this mod. Or perhaps I missed something.Does anybody know how I can prevent this?
I got an idea that might already come close:
By using one of those “switch mono sockets” and use the switch for disconnecting the ground wire from the battery, when the input jack is disconnected? I believe the mod tells you to solder a jumper on the input holes. I just can’t remember where it was.
November 25, 2010 at 9:54 pm #112752The EH ManModeratorSounds like you did the mod wrong somewhere. In stock configuration, anytime the input plug is removed the battery no longer has a complete circuit on the ground.
Where did you get the mod info?November 26, 2010 at 12:50 am #112755Kekke466MemberYes I found the problem and fixed it already, I changed the sockets with high quality ones and the earth was always connected to the battery wire. I put a switching socket in the input and connected the battery to it. Works like a charm again. I was confused! Sorry!
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