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ScruffieMember
Right, you see pin 8 of the 4558? That’s your voltage for the circuit at the moment, it’s currently 3.3V but should be in the 12-13V range, better than it was before but something’s still wrong.
But… Pin 7 of your 741 should be your supply voltage of 18V and is only 3.45V, how are you powering the pedal? In your previous voltages it was at 18.8V so possibly you made a mistake with the mods and something’s dragging it down.
ScruffieMemberGreat! Your next step is indeed to take all the voltages again, now that’s fixed they’ll all have changed and hopefully they’ll offer some useful insight now.
It’s a common thing to assume the BBD (especially SAD1024) is dead first as it’s the most expensive part but blindly assuming that and replacing it isn’t the way to go and nine out of ten times in my experience (and I know other techs who have had the same experience) it’s not the problem… not chastising you but hope if I say it enough the idea will disappear except for when it’s SAD512D, they do seem to die more often but that’s neither here nor there.
You may indeed bitch about them, they are pretty bad, some more so than others (especially when the wires are wrapped round) you get used to them after a while of working on them but even then a trace still lifts now and then.
ScruffieMemberThat’s fine and you want to convert the power section so it looks like the one in this schematic;
ScruffieMemberRight, sounds like that might be the issue then as it wasn’t upgraded. You should have another 2 transistors on the board, both of which should be a 2N5087 or BC309, one in the power section and the other is tied to the 339 and should be ignored.
So, replace the 2N3563 from pin 2 of the 741 with a 6.8V zener diode, cathode (striped end) to pin 2, anode to ground.
Replace the 2N3563 from pin 6 of the 741 in to the base of the 2N5087/BC309/2N4354 with a 47k resistor.
Replace the 18k resistor from pin 3 of the 741 with a 22k resistor.
If the transistor with its emitter connected to the 18V input is a 2N5087 or BC309, replace it with a 2N4354 (don’t forget to check the datasheet for the pinout).
And that should be it.
ScruffieMemberRight, there’s a problem with your voltage regulation circuit by the look of it as nothing is getting proper voltage.
It was quite common on earlier models and a fix was released by EHX so you need to check if it was done already before we go on, on the board there should be 2 transistors, one will be a 2N5087 or BC309 and if the mod was done the other should be a 2N4354, if they’re both 2N5087/BC309 then the mod needs doing.
Or you can just send a photo of the board.
ScruffieMemberYes, each pin, numbered like this, notch or dot indicating the top of the chip
ScruffieMemberPost voltages of all the ICs, only way to debug it.
ScruffieMemberHey,
Power is a good start but I can’t tell you anything without some voltages, the volume drop might be normal but it might not.
The fact the blend and output sliders don’t have an effect doesn’t bode too well though.
ScruffieMemberBy the time you’ve tried every alternative to the Polychorus to get the polychorus sound you’re probably going to have spent twice what one costs…
But no, the DMM oscillates too.
ScruffieMemberGreat, well first things first will be to check power is going to the circuit, should be a 78L15 regulator on the board, test that it has about 20-25V going in and 15V coming out.
Assuming that checks out then simply read the voltages of all the ICs and post them up.
ScruffieMemberOh wow, that’s a lucky find! I have some limited information on it which sadly doesn’t include the schematic but I think I can help you anyway
Do you have a multi-meter and know how to use it first of all?
July 17, 2016 at 2:51 pm in reply to: 70’s BigMUFF Crying Tone Wah , Replacement Mode Switch #121733ScruffieMemberLooking at the schematic it looks to be a 3-Pole 2-Throw Rotary switch.
Hope that helps.
ScruffieMemberShould be 10k.
ScruffieMemberHow are you powering the circuit? Battery or adapter?
It sounds like Q4/2N5088 has blown.
ScruffieMemberHave the voltages changed? On the 324 you should be seeing roughly the same voltage on pins 8 & 9 as you are on pin 10 (it’s a buffer for the reference voltage which should be half supply, pin 10 where the voltage reference enters is a little low but that could just be down to tolerances or value drift) hence why I suggested that cap and the 324 its self.
On your voltages where you list ‘nothing’ on the ICs that’s where the bias voltage should be seen so something is causing an issue there.
Here’s my redraw of the factory schematic for reference;
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